Castle Spotting

Okinawa is the largest of the Ryukyu Islands, islands that have a rich history long before they became a part of Japan. The Ryukyu Kingdom was in a great position for trade, given its proximity to Japan, China, and Southeast Asia. There were many gusukus (castles / fortresses, sometimes holy places) built during the Ryukyu Kingdom's heyday, the ruins of which you can visit all over the island. It seems like there is a sign pointing to a castle site no matter the road you are on. Some are in better shape than others; the only castle that has been rebuilt is Shuri Castle in the city of Naha, a site we plan to see soon!

As part of a Brownie Try-It about the West Pacific (and really Okinawa specifically), we are visiting castle ruins. The first one we visited was Zakimi Castle in Yomitan.

Headed towards the keystone arch

Sense of size and curvature of walls

The Zakimi castle site is one of the many sites in Okinawa that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was constructed in the early 15th century, with walls made of Ryukuan limestone. Apparently, this is not a deterrent for the Fearless Miss M.

No worries, she did not try to climb the walls. For effect only, people!

After visiting the castle, we went next door to the Yomitan Historical and Folkcraft Museum. There were many archaeological artifacts, displays on weaving and farming, a replica of a "turtle-back" tomb, and another replica of an old house. There were also some World War II artifacts. In fact, the US troops landed on Okinawa not far from Zakimi when the Battle of Okinawa (main island) began. Although most of the displays were in Japanese, it was still worthwhile.  

Examples of the funerary urns.
Once the deceased's remains were only bones, the bones were washed and placed in urns within the tombs.

Our next journey to a castle site was as a family, in between two other stops on an adventurous Saturday. The heat was a bit much that day, but we managed to walk most of the grounds of the Nakijin Castle site in Northern Okinawa on the Motobu Peninsula. There is evidence that construction of this castle begain in the 13th century.

Once again, Zoe is not impressed.

This poem tells about the King who was "advanced in age" being blessed with a child from his Queen. The Queen and the King's concubine had prayed for the King to have an heir. The conception was like an "orange tree bearing fruit out of season ". Nothing like being compared to a presumably dormant tree.

The only existing photographic evidence of King and Queen Hokuzan is shown below:

Although we certainly have ancient ruins in the US, most are probably not on the way to the local convenience store, or situated off every major highway. I am increasingly aware of how the past here is woven into the everyday experience of Okinawans. These sites tell the history of the Okinawan people, not the history of Japan. It is akin, I suppose, to the Native American sites in the US. Those sites do not tell the history of the United States, but rather of the Native culture that thrived long before anyone else arrived. I have never been much of a lover of history, despite my father's influence, but living here is changing that.  Until next time...